David Stanko

Redken Artist & Color Consultant

Mahogany Glam Goes Retro

Do you know where you’re goin’ to? That was the subtitle of diva Diana Ross’ 1975 movie Mahogany, and it’s a question worth asking today, as consumers and Redken revisit the shade in a whole new way. For Fall 2008, mahogany has emerged as a truly global color, and Redken’s "Spotlight Collection" featuring Mahogany Glam from Color Fusion and Shades EQ is right on the edge of what’s happening on the street.

As a reinvented classic, retro mahogany takes on different meanings, depending where you are in the life stream. For some, it’s a deja vu that evokes fond memories. Others may recall the color as edgy among a certain set, while freshmen haircolorists may never have "mahoganized" a client at all.

What everyone can grasp: the days–of–disco mahogany didnt shrink on the violet: it ran hot under lights. Redken’s Mahogany Glam Collection is a way cooler proposition with results that move toward amethyst brunette and plum brown.

If you’re new to the chair, hinge trend talk on the fact that youthful celebrities are embracing dark nail colors with a twist:: navy blue is the new black. The similarly cooler–toned Mahogany Glam Collection takes the ’70’s must have "M" series to "Mv" and includes Color Fusion levels 4, 6 and 7; and Shades EQ levels 5, 7 and 8.

There’s a lot of thought behind the range: natural brunettes who have olive complexions or darker skin with yellow undertones look best in the shade. So, always consider skin tones before suggesting deep, mysterious Mv. Then, suggest try–out techniques, such as glazing freshly decolorized–to–orange pieces with Shades EQ Mv in the appropriate level. Another idea: transition color–treated Level 2 or 3 clients into Mv–inspired looks by adding 1/4 to 1/2–oz. of Mv to their existing dark brown Color Fusion formula.

Colorists who have been in the business longer will recognize that the Mahogany Glam Collection is more authentic than the too–dark or orangey browns of glam–rock days. When working with global clients, you’ll easily be able to get them to imagine Salma Hayek as an amethyst brunette – all the rage on the red carpet. An advanced idea: add a smidge (1/4–oz.) of Mv to your single–process redheads to add depth, anchor your red and avoid hot roots. Formula to try: 1 3/4–oz. 6R + 1/4–oz. 6Mv.

Veterans will be able to reminisce right along with me, back to mahogany’s purple–haze days. What’s new for us besides the color’s cooler refinement is that our clients’ skin tones may have changed right along with another thing: gray hair. On hair that’s over 25% gray, Mv shades look best when added to an N series–use a majority of N in your formula with 1/2–oz. of Mv. For example: 1 1/2–oz. 5N + 1/2–oz. 4Mv; then glaze with 07Mv Shades EQ.

It’s a given that fashion is cyclical but what’s old had better be new again. Now you know what’s new and how to use it, where are you goin’ with the "Spotlight Collection" featuring Mahogany Glam? As Diana Ross said in that famous 70’s film, "Success is nothing without someone you love to share it with."

Happy Coloring
David Stanko